Here are four women who deserve to be celebrated this International Women's Day. In France, a dedication to perfecting skills is celebrated with “Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France”, a competition founded 100 years ago in 1924. It is staged every four years with regular updates to make sure modern day trades and fields are included.
Those wishing to achieve the accolade must spend several years training in order for them to create a masterpiece from the materials given to them on the day of the competition.
From the outset, the exam has been a validation of the mastery of know-how in a professional situation. In 2007, Laëtitia Gaborit was named one of the best cheesemongers aged just 28 with her innovative and impressive cheese display.
Laëtitia began a career in cheese with a passion inspired by her father, a cheese dairy worker, who would take her to visit producers during her school holidays.
She took on the challenge of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France in her twenties to discover where she stood professionally. Laëtitia recalls her planning: “I prepared for the competition with a lot of tenacity, desire and, above all, passion. It wasn't easy, I had moments of self-doubt and financially it was quite challenging, but you always have to keep on moving forward.”
Now a cheese trainer, Laëtitia also has her own range of dairy products and cheeses.
Charlène Bouy, founder of Fromagerie Charlicot left a successful career in Mergers and Acquisitions in Paris before retraining to become a cheesemonger. Having left the company her friends encouraged her to pursue her passion in cheese and she's never looked back, citing her former colleagues and the salary as the only elements of the finance job she misses.
When it comes to the qualities that women bring to the industry, Charlène, whose beautiful platters you can see on her Instagram Fromagerie Charlicot, suggests, “Women bring a more marked sensitivity to aesthetics, particularly with cheese platters - the famous “touche féminine”. However, within the industry, I find the women and men who love the profession all share the values of passion, commitment and beautiful presentation.”
At just 23 years old, Pauline Guillot is currently in the process of launching a dairy on the family farm. There she produces AOP Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage from a herd of 35 dairy cows. Having worked on the farm from an early age, Pauline wanted to manage the process from farm to fork. She says being able to transform the milk to a cheese that sets in five hours is nothing less than magical.
Her day begins at 5.30am when the cold milk arrives from the previous day. The process of adding the ferments and rennet, placing the curd in the molds and flipping the curds takes them up to lunchtime. After a well earned break, the team returns in the early afternoon to flip the molds again and at 5pm the cheeses are salted and finished before the 21 day maturation process can start.
Pauline says being a woman in the industry means there's extra pressure to produce high quality products and there's an additional need for women to prove they can handle the physical demands of all stages of the production. She believes that women bring rigour and organisation to the production process as well as a different perspective to the male dominated traditions. Her advice for future female producers, “Be passionate about what you do, don't listen to criticism and trust yourself. Remember, we are just as capable as men we just need different approaches.”
The world of cheese is not just about producers and cheesemongers, CNIEL's director of international communications Marie-Laure Martin's followed her passion for working in agricultural products by studying food sociology. She worked briefly in the meat sector and then in fruit and vegetables before joining CNIEL to develop the international promotion of French dairy products.
For Marie-Laure, it's the human dimension of her job that appeals the most, and she is proud to represent the men and women dedicated to producing quality food. There is no such thing as a typical day as her time is divided between internal meetings, meetings with agencies around the world, creative brainstorming, administrative and reporting tasks and travelling to different territories. Her advice to anyone considering a job in the dairy industry is to “do something that you care about.”
The world of cheese is constantly developing and Laëtitia, Charlène, Pauline and Marie-Laure all share a commitment to sharing its qualities, traditions and craft to ensure its legacy for generations to come. It is wonderful to celebrate them this International Women's Day.
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