Friday, 14 July 2023

Celebrating National Wine and Cheese Day

As we are nearing National Wine and Cheese Day, Henry Harris, the much-celebrated and well-loved chef and co-owner of the National Restaurant Award winning Bouchon Racine in London, tells of his love of cheese and offers some wine pairing suggestions for those wishing to celebrate on Tuesday 25th July.

Henry's love of cheese began as a child when his father, who operated a French restaurant in Brighton, introduced him to Gaperon a cow's milk cheese with garlic and peppercorns it was this moment when he realised there was another world of cheese. 

Henry recalls trying Brie de Meaux for the first time; “It seemed to have a life of its own, oozing, runny and making its way off the board whilst I scooped up mouthfuls of this liquid joy with pieces of bread.” 

Now running a restaurant himself that is known for the quality of its produce and its authentic French cooking Henry says: “Europeans are remarkable producers of great cheese and they know how to make their cheeses stand out, offering a wonderful basket of options for a restaurant that changes its menu on a daily basis.”

Cheeses will vary according to their terroir, location and climate and vary according to the seasons. Hard cheeses mature for some 12 months and benefit from the qualities of summer milk (more flowers in the cows' feed, more carotene, etc.), the same applies to shorter maturing cheeses which are produced in spring.

One of Henry's choices for the restaurant would be Époisses, a soft-ripened, washed-rind cheese made from raw cow's milk in the city of the same name.

Époisses has a strong flavour profile and an almost melting quality and is also known for its strong aroma. According to Henry, the cheese would be lovely served with a White Burgundy perhaps like a cellar-aged Montrachet or a Côtes Catalanes for its minerality.

He loves a Camembert paired with a vin jaune and for those who are looking to try something different for National Wine and Cheese Day, he'd suggest opting for a St. Marcellin, which is a soft, creamy cheese with gentle acidity, served simply with a crusty baguette paired with a Mâcon Chardonnay.

When it comes to harder cheeses, Henry would suggest a Tomme de Savoie, which is the oldest of the region's cheeses and with its straightforward taste and delicate, subtle flavours the cheese would pair perfectly with a glass of Roussette de Savoie.

For a ready and easy summer meal, place a slice of Bleu des Causses onto a freshly grilled steak, as the meat rests the cheese will melt to become a deliciously creamy sauce. Very good when served with a crisp green salad and a glass of lightly chilled Fleurie.

For more information and details of the French cheeses available in the UK visit: https://dairy-products-from-france.com/cheese/all-cheeses/

Incidentally, Henry is chef and co-owner of London's award-winning restaurant, Bouchon Racine which opened to great critical acclaim in November 2022. He has worked as a chef and chef consultant for forty years and is admired by chefs, critics, food writers and French food lovers.

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