The History of Small-Batch Locally Produced Steak and Chop Sauces. Including Wrekin Relish from Shropshire

A modern interpretation of what Wrekin Relish might have looked like

Some years ago when I was undertaking research in 19th century newspapers I found mention of a steak and chop source called Wrekin Relish.

I have decided to use what I learned about Wrekin Relish to write a longer piece about not only Wrekin Relish but the once common, but now almost forgotten, history of locally or regionally produced steak and chop sauces and relishes.

Steak and chop sauces have long been an essential part of British culinary tradition, enhancing the rich flavours of grilled and roasted meats. 

While mass-produced sauces like Worcestershire Sauce and HP Sauce have dominated shelves for over a century, the history of small-batch, locally produced steak and chop sauces is equally fascinating. 

These regional specialities, often crafted by small-scale producers using unique local ingredients, have played a significant role in shaping British cuisine.

The Rise of Local Steak and Chop Sauces

In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Britain saw a flourishing of local food production, with butchers, brewers, and small-scale manufacturers creating their own signature condiments. These sauces were designed to complement the hearty cuts of meat that formed the backbone of many meals. Unlike mass-market brands, these small-batch sauces were often handcrafted, relying on secret recipes passed down through generations.

Some of these sauces gained a cult following within their regions, with demand extending to local inns, chophouses, and butcher shops. While the precise recipes were closely guarded, many of these sauces shared common elements such as malt vinegar, mustard, molasses, tamarind, and a blend of warming spices. Each producer added their own twist, incorporating locally available ingredients to make their sauces stand out.

Wrekin Relish – A Shropshire Speciality

One such example of a beloved small-batch sauce was Wrekin Relish, a steak and chop sauce produced in Shropshire in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Named after the iconic Wrekin Hill, a well-known local landmark, Wrekin Relish was reputed for its deep, tangy, and slightly spiced profile that paired perfectly with grilled meats.

Wrekin Relish was originally crafted by a family-run enterprise in Wellington, Shropshire, a market town with a strong tradition of artisanal food production. Though its exact ingredients remain a mystery, contemporary accounts suggest that it combined vinegar, dark sugars, allspice, and fruit-based elements, giving it a balance of sweet, savoury, and piquant flavours. This made it particularly popular among local chophouses and steak restaurants, where it became a signature accompaniment.

The Decline and Resurgence of Small-Batch Sauces

The advent of industrial food production in the mid-20th century saw the decline of many small-batch steak and chop sauces. Large manufacturers, with their extensive distribution networks and marketing power, gradually replaced local favourites with widely available branded sauces. Many traditional recipes were lost, and family-run sauce-making businesses either closed or shifted to other trades.

However, in recent years, there has been a growing movement towards artisanal and locally crafted foods, including a revival of historic sauces. Food historians and independent producers have sought to recreate lost recipes, bringing back the bold, unique flavours that once defined British regional cuisine. Inspired by past classics like Wrekin Relish, modern small-batch producers are experimenting with traditional methods and locally sourced ingredients, appealing to consumers looking for authenticity and heritage in their food choices.

Conclusion

The history of small-batch, locally produced steak and chop sauces is a testament to Britain’s rich culinary heritage. Wrekin Relish and its counterparts provided depth and character to dishes, reflecting the unique tastes of the regions where they were made. 

Though many of these sauces disappeared over time, the resurgence of interest in artisanal food production offers hope that traditional recipes might once again find a place on our tables. Whether through rediscovery or reinvention, these historic sauces continue to inspire the modern food movement, celebrating the legacy of Britain’s small-scale culinary artisans.

Later on we will be publishing a piece on a famous local relish that has not only survived but thrived. Henderson's Northern Relish.  

Rediscovering the Forgotten Regional Cheeses of Britain and Ireland

In the world of cheese, Britain and Ireland have long been recognised for famous varieties like Cheddar, Stilton, and Wensleydale. 

But beneath these household names lies a treasure trove of lesser-known regional cheeses that have been overshadowed or even forgotten in the tides of time. Each of these cheeses tells a story of place, tradition, and heritage. 

As artisan cheese-making experiences a revival, it’s time to bring some of these hidden gems back into the spotlight.

1. Dorset Blue Vinny

Once a staple in Dorset households, Dorset Blue Vinny is a blue-veined cheese that was historically made using the skimmed milk left over from butter production. Its name derives from the Old English word vinny, meaning mould. Despite falling out of production by the mid-20th century, it has been resurrected by dedicated cheese-makers in Dorset, giving a new lease of life to this crumbly, tangy cheese. With its sharp blue veins and strong flavour, Dorset Blue Vinny is perfect in salads or crumbled into a hearty soup.

2. Coolea

Coolea hails from the south of Ireland, more specifically from County Cork. Made in the style of Dutch Gouda, this cheese has been crafted by the Willems family since the 1970s, but it often gets overlooked. Coolea’s creamy, nutty profile, with hints of caramel as it ages, makes it a delightful surprise for cheese enthusiasts who may not expect such complexity from an Irish cheese.

3. Swaledale

Swaledale cheese traces its origins to the Yorkshire Dales, specifically to the isolated Swaledale valley. Traditionally made with sheep’s milk by monks in the 11th century, this cheese has been revived by local farmers after its production nearly vanished in the 20th century. Swaledale cheese is now available in both cow’s and sheep’s milk varieties. Its flavour is mild yet earthy, with a slightly crumbly texture, making it a versatile cheese for any board.

4. Dunlop

Named after the village of Dunlop in Ayrshire, Dunlop cheese was a firm favourite in Scotland during the 18th and 19th centuries. Often referred to as Scotland’s answer to Cheddar, it is a semi-hard cheese with a smooth, buttery texture. Though its popularity waned during the 20th century, a resurgence of interest in traditional Scottish cheese-making has brought Dunlop back to life. Its creamy, mild flavour makes it ideal for melting over dishes or enjoying with a hearty oatcake.

5. Durrus

From the wild landscapes of West Cork comes Durrus, a semi-soft, washed-rind cheese created by Jeffa Gill in the 1970s. While not ancient, it reflects a rich heritage of Irish farmhouse cheese-making. Durrus has a creamy interior and a rind with a distinctively pungent aroma, a result of being washed in brine during its maturation. The flavour is earthy and nutty, making it a wonderful addition to any cheese plate or paired with fruits and crusty bread.

6. Yarg

One of Cornwall’s most unique offerings is Yarg, a semi-hard cheese wrapped in nettle leaves. The recipe was rediscovered in the 1980s, though it is believed to date back centuries. Yarg’s nettle-wrapping gives it a distinctive appearance and imparts a mild, fresh flavour to the creamy cheese inside. The cheese has a delicate, slightly tangy taste, making it a perfect partner for fresh fruits or a chilled glass of white wine.

7. Little Derby

While Derby cheese itself is well-known, Little Derby, a more rustic, aged variety, has been largely forgotten. Historically made in Derbyshire, it has a smooth, dense texture and a rich, creamy taste, somewhat akin to a mild Cheddar but with its own distinctively earthy undertones. Unlike its more famous cousin, Red Leicester, Little Derby has not enjoyed the same commercial success but remains a hidden delight for those lucky enough to find it.

The Revival of Forgotten Cheeses

The good news is that many of these forgotten regional cheeses are being rediscovered by food lovers and artisan producers across Britain and Ireland. Farmers and cheesemakers are turning back to traditional methods, reintroducing long-lost varieties and preserving a part of local heritage. These cheeses may not be as widely available as their mainstream counterparts, but they are worth seeking out for those who appreciate authentic, artisanal flavours.

When we explore these regional cheeses, we are not only experiencing unique and delicious flavours, but we are also supporting the preservation of a cheese-making tradition that might otherwise be lost. So next time you’re at a farmer’s market or speciality food shop, don’t just reach for the Cheddar – try something new, or rather, something old. Discover the forgotten cheeses of Britain and Ireland and celebrate the rich diversity of our culinary history.

Final Thoughts

As we continue to see a resurgence in local food production and an interest in authentic, hand-crafted products, the future for these forgotten cheeses looks brighter. So, whether you’re planning a cheese board for an autumn evening or simply fancy trying something new, why not give these lesser-known treasures a place at your table? In their flavours lie the stories of Britain and Ireland’s landscapes, people, and history – stories that deserve to be told and tasted.

Call to Action:

What forgotten regional cheese would you like to try? Let us know in the comments below, and don’t forget to share your favourite cheese discoveries with friends and family!

It's much more than pasta and pizza! Exploring the Rich Tapestry of Regional Italian Cuisines

Italy, a country renowned for its art, history, and scenic landscapes, also boasts a culinary heritage that is as diverse as its regions. Each area has its own unique flavours, ingredients, and cooking techniques, reflecting the rich cultural tapestry of this Mediterranean paradise. 

Let's embark on a gastronomic journey through the regions of Italy, exploring the distinctive dishes that define their culinary identities.

Northern Italy: Rich and Hearty Flavours

Lombardy

In Lombardy, the cuisine is known for its richness and depth. Risotto, particularly Risotto alla Milanese, made with saffron, is a staple. Ossobuco, a slow-cooked veal shank, is another local favourite, often served with the aforementioned risotto. Polenta, a creamy cornmeal dish, frequently accompanies hearty stews and sausages.

Piedmont

Piedmont, famous for its truffles and wines, offers indulgent dishes like Bagna Cauda, a warm anchovy and garlic dip. Vitello Tonnato, thin slices of veal topped with a tuna sauce, is a classic Piedmontese antipasto. The region is also home to the slow-cooked stew, Bollito Misto.

Veneto

In Veneto, risottos are also prominent, with Risotto al Nero di Seppia, made with cuttlefish ink, being particularly noteworthy. The Venetian love for seafood is evident in dishes like Sarde in Saor, sweet and sour sardines. Bigoli in Salsa, thick whole-wheat pasta with an anchovy and onion sauce, is another regional speciality.

Central Italy: Rustic and Robust

Tuscany

Tuscany's cuisine is all about simplicity and quality ingredients. The famous Ribollita, a hearty vegetable and bread soup, epitomises the region's rustic charm. Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a thick-cut T-bone steak, showcases the region’s love for quality meat. Pappa al Pomodoro, a bread and tomato soup, highlights the ingenuity in using stale bread.

Umbria

Umbria, often referred to as the "green heart of Italy," offers earthy flavours with dishes like Torta al Testo, a traditional flatbread. The region is famous for its Norcia black truffles, often featured in pastas and omelettes. Porchetta, a savoury, fatty, and moist boneless pork roast, is a highlight of Umbrian cuisine.

Lazio

The capital region of Lazio brings us iconic dishes such as Spaghetti alla Carbonara, featuring eggs, cheese, pancetta, and pepper. Cacio e Pepe, a simple yet flavourful pasta dish made with pecorino cheese and black pepper, is another Roman favourite. Saltimbocca alla Romana, veal topped with prosciutto and sage, is a classic secondi.

Southern Italy: Vibrant and Spicy

Campania

Campania, home to Naples, is synonymous with pizza. The Margherita pizza, with its simple yet perfect combination of tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil, is a testament to the region’s culinary genius. The coastal region also excels in seafood, with Spaghetti alle Vongole (spaghetti with clams) being a must-try. Sfogliatella, a shell-shaped filled pastry, is a popular dessert from this region.

Sicily

Sicilian cuisine is a melting pot of influences, reflecting the island's history. Arancini, fried rice balls stuffed with ragu or cheese, are a beloved street food. Caponata, a sweet and sour eggplant dish, highlights the island's penchant for balancing flavours. Cannoli, crispy pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta, are perhaps Sicily's most famous dessert.

Puglia

In Puglia, simplicity and local produce shine. Orecchiette con Cime di Rapa, pasta with turnip tops, is a regional classic. Focaccia Barese, a soft bread topped with tomatoes and olives, showcases the region's excellent olive oil. Burrata, a creamy cheese, is a luxurious treat from this fertile region.

The Islands: Unique Flavours of Sardinia and Sicily

Sardinia

Sardinian cuisine stands out with dishes like Pane Carasau, a thin, crispy flatbread. Malloreddus, small pasta shells often served with sausage and tomato sauce, are a regional staple. Porceddu, a slow-roasted suckling pig, is a festive dish that reflects the island’s pastoral traditions.

Italian cuisine is a journey of flavours, each region offering its own unique take on traditional dishes. From the creamy risottos of the north to the spicy, vibrant dishes of the south, Italian regional cuisines celebrate local ingredients and time-honoured techniques. Whether you’re savouring a simple pasta dish or indulging in a decadent dessert, each bite is a testament to Italy’s rich culinary heritage. So, the next time you enjoy an Italian meal, remember the diverse regional influences that make it truly special. Buon appetito!