Liam Hirt, founder of Circumstance Distillery, has announced his intention to appeal Defra’s decision to approve the new English Whisky Geographical Indication (GI).
The protected status is due to be added to the official register on 1 October 2026, following a 20-day notice period.
Hirt supports the principle of protecting English whisky but objects to parts of the specification submitted by the English Whisky Guild, particularly the definition of Single Malt English Whisky.
Under the approved rules, single malt English whisky must be double distilled using copper pot stills. Hirt argues that this requirement follows the Scotch whisky model too closely and fails to represent either England’s own distilling heritage or the varied production methods being explored by modern English distilleries.
“The Scottish model isn’t wrong; it’s contrary to the English traditions,” he said. “It is like making the English wear kilts," he told That's Food and Drink.
His formal objection was deemed admissible under the relevant grounds for opposition, and Defra asked Hirt and the English Whisky Guild to hold discussions. However, he says those talks failed to resolve the disagreement.
Hirt believes the specification should have taken greater inspiration from the Welsh Whisky GI, which he says draws upon international approaches and allows Single Malt Welsh Whisky to distinguish itself more clearly from Scotch.
He warned distilleries complying with the English GI could end up producing spirits that are difficult to distinguish from Scotch, while some of the industry’s more experimental producers may have to operate outside the protected category.
That, he argues, could create a confusing situation in which innovative whisky made in England cannot be marketed as “English Whisky” under the GI.
Producers using protected terms will also need to be verified through HMRC’s Spirit Drink Verification Scheme, bringing additional requirements and costs.
The dispute comes as English whisky is expanding rapidly. Defra says more than 70 distilleries now produce whisky in England, compared with 46 in 2023. English whisky is exported to over 30 countries, while an estimated £1 billion worth of spirit is currently maturing in casks.
The GI is intended to protect the provenance and reputation of English whisky. However, Hirt maintains that protection must be broad enough to embrace the distinctive character, history and inventiveness of England’s emerging whisky industry.
He says he will appeal if the original specification remains unchanged, potentially beginning a lengthy process to amend the new GI.
